中國大飯店阿麗雅餐廳澳洲大廚Phillip Taylor，來(lái)自澳大利亞，擁有七年烹飪廚技，曾任職于大洋洲、歐洲及亞洲的多家著(zhù)名餐廳，來(lái)北京前, 泰勒曾在悉尼香格里拉大酒店Altitude餐廳擔任副廚師長(cháng)。
辨認各個(gè)部位的牛肉
Identifying cuts of beef:
關(guān)于不同部位牛肉的特點(diǎn)，請大家記住一條最基本的規律：距離牛的腿和脖子（因為這是牛身上最經(jīng)?；顒?dòng)的兩個(gè)部位）越遠的部分，用做牛排時(shí)肉質(zhì)就越嫩越好吃。離腿和脖子近的部分比較適合做燉牛肉，這部分我將會(huì )在入冬時(shí)節教給大家。那么我們現在就來(lái)看看哪些部位適合做牛排吧：
A very basic general rule for beef; the further away the cut of beef is from the legs/neck (the parts of the animal that regularly move), the more tender the cut will be when cooked as a steak. In winter I'll start looking into braised cuts of meat, but the cuts useful for steak are as follows:
臀肉牛排，西冷牛排(沙朗牛排)，牛里脊排(菲力牛排)，肉眼牛排，帶骨肉眼牛排，T骨牛排。
Rump, sirloin, tenderloin, rib eye, bone in rib eye, and T bone.
每個(gè)部位的牛肉其味道和口感各不相同，很難用語(yǔ)言來(lái)形容。想知道自己更喜歡哪種，最好的方式就是每種都嘗一遍。如果你很在意飲食健康，那么牛里脊排是最好的選擇。但如果你希望在一塊牛排上品嘗到不同的肉質(zhì)口感，肉眼牛排則更適合你。如果喜歡帶有薄薄一層入口即化的肥肉的牛排，那你一定要選西冷牛排。如果自己一個(gè)人吃，我個(gè)人最喜歡的是肉眼牛排，要是和同伴一起，則會(huì )選擇帶骨肉眼牛排一同分享。
The various types of beef cuts have different flavor and texture that is hard to describe; the best way to find out which cut you like is to try all of them. If you are being health conscious tenderloin may be the cut of your choice. However if you like different textures within the meat, rib eye would be more suitable. If you enjoy a thin layer of nicely caramelized fat, sirloin is definitely your pick. My favorite steak cut is rib eye if eating alone, or a bone in rib eye to share if I have company.
在我的餐廳，我們用精確到1攝氏度的標準來(lái)測量牛排的內部溫度，這樣可以確保每一塊牛排都達到客人要求的最準確的熟度。每種熟度的溫度標準為：
近生牛排28攝氏度，一分熟牛排36攝氏度，三分熟牛排42攝氏度，五分熟牛排50攝氏度，七分熟牛排60攝氏度，全熟牛排65攝氏度。
In my restaurant we take the internal temperature within 1°C of the correct temperature to ensure we consistently achieve the correct level of doneness. Temperatures of doneness are：
28°C Blue, 36°C Rare, 42°C Medium Rare, 50°C Medium, 60°C Medium Well, 65°C Well Done.
上圖右邊是在我曾工作過(guò)的一間餐廳的廚房里拍的，這樣就沒(méi)人能為自己煎不到牛排的正確熟度找借口了。
At one of the restaurants I worked at, this was written on the pass, nobody could use an excuse for overcooking a steak.
用平底鍋來(lái)煎牛排的步驟：
(大部分客人會(huì )點(diǎn)五分熟的牛排，那么我就來(lái)做一份五分熟的牛排給大家)
Cooking Steak in a Pan:
(Most our guests order medium, I’ll prepare a medium steak)
1．在煎之前先把牛排在室溫下放置十分鐘，以使牛肉達到和室溫同樣的溫度。這樣可以保證在煎制過(guò)程中熱量能更容易地穿透牛肉。如果牛排太冷就開(kāi)始煎，還沒(méi)等中間部分達到你想要的熟度時(shí)，外部就已經(jīng)煎得太老了。
1. Allow your steak to come up to room temperature by leaving it on the bench top for 10 minutes prior to cooking. This allows the heat to move easily through the beef. If the steak is too cold, the outside will be well done before we reach medium in the middle.
2. 加鹽和胡椒。加的時(shí)候要考慮到牛排的大小。越厚的牛排，需要放的調味料就越多。和海鮮比起來(lái)，肉類(lèi)需要更多的調味料，所以不要吝嗇你的鹽和胡椒。另外，在開(kāi)始煎制之前就放調味料很重要，這讓鹽有足夠的時(shí)間滲透到整個(gè)牛排里。
2. Season your steak; take into consideration the size of the cut. The thicker the cut, the more seasoning. Meat generally can be seasoned a lot more than seafood, so don’t be shy with the seasoning. It’s important to season the meat just before cooking, allowing the salt to penetrate into the meat.
3．煎制時(shí)間
現在告訴大家一個(gè)我個(gè)人發(fā)明的小竅門(mén)。之前我可從沒(méi)告訴過(guò)別人，因為它聽(tīng)起來(lái)有一點(diǎn)奇怪。這個(gè)竅門(mén)就是——量一下牛排的厚度(不過(guò)可千萬(wàn)別在專(zhuān)業(yè)的廚房里用這招) ，然后乘以2，得出的結果就是煎制一份五分熟牛排所需的總時(shí)間。
比如，煎制一份3厘米厚的肉眼牛排，乘以2 (因為要煎雙面)，一共需要6分鐘。
如果需要煎制不同熟度的牛排，每一級可以相應加或減2分鐘。
所以，煎制一塊3厘米厚的牛排所需時(shí)間為：
全熟：10分鐘
七分熟：8分鐘
五分熟：6分鐘(每面各3分鐘)
三分熟：4分鐘
一分熟：2分鐘
近生：這種熟度的做法比較特殊，僅需把牛排在一個(gè)比較暖的地方(大約30攝氏度)放置10分鐘，然后很快地煎一下兩面，就可以吃了(不過(guò)中國人是很少能接受得了近生牛排的，估計大家也用不上這個(gè))。
*如果牛排里有骨(比如帶骨肉眼牛排)，一般需要比同樣厚度的無(wú)骨牛排多煎4-6分鐘(具體時(shí)間由骨頭的大小決定)，因為骨頭會(huì )妨礙熱量的滲透。
*如果你是專(zhuān)業(yè)廚師，我很懷疑你的數學(xué)足夠好到可以同時(shí)應付50份牛排，這個(gè)時(shí)候就要靠經(jīng)驗了。
3. COOKING TIME
Here’s a little trick I developed personally, and I never tell anyone because it just sounds weird.
Measure the thickness of your steak (don’t do it if you’re in a professional kitchen, trust me). Multiply it by 2, and that’s your total cooking time.
E.g 3cm-thick rib eye multiplied by 2 (for cooking two sides) gives you a total cooking time of 6 minutes.
Add or subtract 2 minutes to reach the next level of doneness. So for a steak that is 3cm in thickness:
Well Done: 10 Minutes
Medium well: 8 Minutes
Medium: 6 Minutes(3 minutes each side)
Medium Rare: 4 Minutes
Rare: 2 Minutes
Blue: Is a special case, I just place it in a warm spot for 10 minutes (around 30°C). Sear very quickly and serve, no need to rest.
* If it has a bone in it (i.e. bone in rib eye), it usually requires an extra 4-6 minutes (depending on the size of the bone) as bone density stops heat penetrating the meat.
* If you’re a chef, I doubt you are that good at maths when you have 50 steaks on order; learn to cook by experience.
4. 把厚底平底鍋(耐高溫且受熱均勻的)放在高火上燒熱，放油(我平時(shí)做飯并不用橄欖油，但我覺(jué)得煎牛排的時(shí)候還是值得加些橄欖油和蔬菜油混合在一起的)，只要油一開(kāi)始冒煙就把牛排放進(jìn)鍋里，然后開(kāi)始計時(shí)！
4. Place a heavy based pan (one that can handle high heat and conduct heat evenly) on the stove, and bring to a high heat. Add oil (I usually don’t cook with olive oil, but for steaks I feel it’s worth using a blended olive and vegetable oil), as soon as you see the oil begin to smoke add the steak to the pan, and start your timer!
5. 把牛排放入鍋中后，就可以把火稍微調低到中高火。然后你就不用管它了(放松一下吧，倒杯紅酒喝)。3分鐘以后把牛排翻過(guò)來(lái)繼續煎，然后繼續回去喝你的紅酒。
5. Once the steak is in the pan turn it down slightly to a medium-high heat. And just let it cook, you don’t need to touch it at all (just relax, take a sip of wine). At the three-minute point turn the steaks, and go back to your wine:)
6. 到距離計時(shí)結束還差一分鐘的時(shí)候，把火關(guān)掉，但牛排要繼續留在鍋里。往鍋里放一小塊黃油再撒一把百里香。隨著(zhù)黃油的融化，用一個(gè)勺子不停地盛起黃油泡沫澆在牛排上。當你在這時(shí)聞到香氣四溢的牛排，就能理解當廚師是件多么美妙的事了！
6. Once there is only a minute left on the clock, turn the heat off, but leave the steak in the pan. Place a small amount of butter into the pan and a few sprigs of thyme. Use a spoon to continuously pour the nutty brown butter over the steak. At this point when you smell the roasted steak, you should understand why being a cook is so awesome!
7. 當計時(shí)結束后，從鍋里盛出牛排，并把剩余的棕色黃油汁淋在牛排上。如果牛排準備搭配醬汁來(lái)吃，就把鍋先放一邊留用，因為鍋里還留有牛排的余香(醬汁的做法在后面)。
7. Once your timer finishes remove the steak from the pan and allow to rest, drizzle over the nut brown butter. Keep your pan if you want to make a sauce, all the flavor is stuck in the pan; keep it aside (Find sauce recipes below).
8. 晾置牛排。牛肉里的肌肉纖維原本在高溫狀態(tài)下全都收緊了，晾置一會(huì )兒它們才能重新舒展放松下來(lái)。一般來(lái)說(shuō)晾置時(shí)長(cháng)至少需要煎牛排總時(shí)間的一半，也就是說(shuō)現在至少需要晾置3分鐘。晾置更長(cháng)的時(shí)間也沒(méi)問(wèn)題，但要小心別把牛排放涼了。如果放涼了，可以放在熱烤箱里快速加溫一下或放回平底鍋給表面稍微加熱一下。要想做出肉質(zhì)嫩軟的牛排，晾置非常重要，和煎制過(guò)程同樣重要，所以請千萬(wàn)別忽略這一步。
8. Resting; allowing the steak's muscle fibers that have contracted, due to the high heat,to slightly cool and expand again. The general rule for resting is at least half the cooking time, so in this case it would be 3 minutes. Resting longer is ok, just don’t let it go cold. A quick flash in a hot oven or back in the pan to warm the surface won’t overcook your steak. Resting is crucial for a nice tender steak, as crucial as cooking the steak itself, so please calm yourself and allow the steak to rest.
9. 把整塊牛排切成幾大片，注意切成的片越小牛排就涼得越快。擠上一些檸檬汁后就可以好好享用你的牛排了！如果還想要搭配醬汁的話(huà)，下面會(huì )教給大家洋蔥黑胡椒汁和奶油蘑菇汁的做法。
9. Carve your steak into large pieces, the smaller the piece, the faster it gets cold. Enjoy with a squeeze of lemon, or read on to learn how to make onion and pepper sauce / mushroom cream sauce.
* 最好先做醬汁然后再煎牛排，在晾置牛排時(shí)把事先做好的醬汁放在煎過(guò)牛排的平底鍋里再加熱一下，這樣醬汁里也有牛肉的香味了。
* It’s a good idea to make the sauces first, and then reheat them back in the pan that you cooked the steak in to pick up the entire meat flavor left in the pan.
洋蔥黑胡椒汁 Onion and Pepper Sauce:
洋蔥切細絲，和適量橄欖油一起倒入熱鍋。
Finely slice your onions, and place them in a hot pan with a splash of olive oil.
高火不停翻炒直至洋蔥變成金黃色。放入黑胡椒和百里香，和洋蔥混在一起繼續翻炒。
Place it on high heat and get a nice golden color on your onions whilst constantly stirring. Add pepper and thyme, then mix them through the onions.
往鍋里倒一杯紅酒，煮至紅酒收汁。把百里香的桿從鍋中取出來(lái)，最后加鹽。
Add a cup of red wine. Allow the red wine to reduce to a glaze. Remove the thyme stalks from the sauce and add seasoning.
這是我個(gè)人最喜歡的配汁，簡(jiǎn)單，健康，而且沒(méi)有什么比紅酒、黑胡椒和洋蔥更適合搭配牛排的了。好好享受美味吧！
This is my favorite sauce. It’s healthy, simple and nothing compliments steak better than red wine, pepper and onion. Enjoy.
奶油蘑菇汁 Mushroom Cream Sauce:
香菇入鍋直到變成金黃色，然后加入杏鮑菇，之后加洋蔥碎和蒜片。當洋蔥變軟呈金黃色時(shí)，倒入金針菇和茶樹(shù)菇。
Add your shitake mushrooms and roast them until golden, then add oyster mushrooms followed by diced onion and garlic. Cook until onions are soft and golden, and then add the enoki and Yunnan mushrooms.
撒入百里香、適量鹽和胡椒與蘑菇一起翻炒。
Add your thyme and a little bit salt and pepper, and toss through the mushrooms.
倒入半杯白葡萄酒，繼續高火直到酒汁基本揮發(fā)掉。
Add half a cup of white wine, and reduce it until it is nearly evaporated.
倒入半杯奶油。稍微收一下汁后關(guān)火。擠一些檸檬汁，再根據自己喜好加少量鹽和胡椒即可。
Add half a cup of cream. Slightly reduce and remove from heat. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste.
一般來(lái)說(shuō)我不太喜歡以奶油為基調的醬汁，但是在中國蘑菇的種類(lèi)特別豐富且味道鮮美，所以我很喜歡這道醬汁的口感和味道。好好享用吧！
Usually I’m not a fan of cream based sauces, however the mushroom variety in China is amazing and I really enjoy the flavor and texture of this sauce. Enjoy.
